Op-Ed, Part 6: Belize Adventure Takes Hikers High Into the Mountains

Editor’s Note: This is Part 6 of a series by Olasee Davis on the St. Croix Hiking Association’s recent trip to Belize. Read Part 1 here, Part 2 here, Part 3 here, Part 4 here, and Part 5 here.

This is the sixth in my series on the St. Croix Hiking Association’s adventures in Belize, one that hikers will never forget due to our emotional connection with the Mayan people, the hiking, and camping in the mountains. That morning at Pals on the Beach hotel in Dangriga, we ate breakfast and packed our backpacks with hiking gear, sleeping bags, bug spray, and other camping equipment for an overnight camp in the mountains of the Tiger Fern Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary. Believe me, that morning everyone looked forward to visiting the sanctuary. It would be the adventure of all adventures, especially camping in the mountains and exploring the wildlife sanctuary trails, waterfalls, and animal life.

In 1984, Cockscomb Basin Wildlife in Belize was declared a forest preserve. Later, the forest preserve became known as the Cockscomb Basin Jaguar Preserve, which was established in 1986. It was the world’s first sanctuary for jaguars, the largest cat in the Americas. The preserve was created after wildlife biologist Dr. Alan Rabinowitz discovered a large population of jaguars in the Stann Creek district, the south-central mountain range of Belize. The wildlife preserve has grown from 3,600 acres to over 125,000 acres of primarily rainforest with an annual rainfall of 100 to 150 inches of rain per year.

Besides jaguar protection, the wildlife sanctuary is home to other mammals such as cougars, monkeys, otters, wild pigs, deer, tapirs, ocelots, and more. There are more than 300 different species of native and migratory birds including parrots, hawks, toucans, and the majestic scarlet macaw, which became extinct on St. Croix hundreds of years ago. The wildlife sanctuary is also home to a very large number of insects, frogs, toads, snakes, bats, and many others.

The dominant tree species in the reserve are cedar and mahogany with dense and thick vegetation that includes orchids, bromelias, and other jungle forest vines. There are many trails and several waterfalls to visit. The sanctuary is well established with cabins, running water, a visitors’ center, museums, pavilions, and many other facilities, such as a research lab for wildlife and forest studies.

When we got to the wildlife sanctuary headquarters from our long drive, we were greeted by staff members informing us of our activities for the next day and a half in the wilderness, and the surrounding Mayan village communities. After we ate lunch, hikers were separated into groups. Some would be hiking to the mountains to an overnight camp with tents and hammocks, and others would be staying in the cabins at the wildlife sanctuary facilities. Ben, a wildlife biologist and Maya descendant was our tour guide to the mountains with two other helpers. We took the Jaguar Trail, which started off level, and eventually we began to climb. As Ben began to talk about the forest, conservation, and the history of the site, it was interesting, especially about wildlife in the area and how the area became a sanctuary for the preservation of jaguars, other wildlife and the natural and cultural resources of the site.

As Ben continued, he spoke about his people who once lived for thousands of years in the area, practicing traditional conservation and their way of life in the forest. What touched our hearts was when Ben mentioned how the government kicked his people off their own land. “What! You mean the government kicked your people (Mayans) off the land?” He went a step further by sharing, the government gave them 90 days to move off their land so the wildlife sanctuary could be expanded.

Believe me, that touched our hearts. As hikers we felt a connection with the Mayan people not just physically and because of what happened to them with their land, but also spiritually and emotionally. As a result of the force of action, the Mayan people in that area have become squatters. Even Ben himself, who lived not too far from the wildlife sanctuary headquarters. No other lands were set aside for them by the government, according to Ben.

Before we knew it, we arrived on top of the mountain. Oh, what beauty to behold almost touching the heavenly sky. It was a spectacular 360-degree panorama view on top of the mountain. In the distance, we saw Victoria Peak, the second-highest mountain in Belize of over 3,675 feet above sea level. For those of us who would be camping for the night, the mountain was going to be our temporary home. Before nightfall, we explored the two waterfalls in the mountains. I tell you, what a hike! It was a deep valley hiking down and you’d better hold on for your life. At times, your foot felt like it wanted to give away. There were cliffs along the way with a rope to hold on to. In some parts of the trail, there were steps. The trail to the waterfalls was more difficult than hiking to the mountain. You had to keep your balance and weight on your way down to make sure you didn’t tumble down into the valley. As seasoned hikers, we love challenges like this.

At last, we heard the water running down into the pools of the waterfalls. Eventually, we arrived at the falls. Believe me, it was a journey hiking down into the valley. Imagine coming back up! Oh, God help us! Once we saw the waterfalls, it was heaven on earth. We forgot all about how hard it was coming down into the valley. How can I describe the waterfalls for you?

It was billions of gallons of water flowing from steep slopes high on cliffs over a vertical drop or a series of steep drops falling into a clear crystal pool of water and running over rocks into the river. The adventure of a lifetime in nature at Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary on the mountain top begins in the last of the series that is coming up next.

 — Olasee Davis is a bush professor who lectures and writes about the culture, history, ecology and environment of the Virgin Islands when he is not leading hiking tours of the wild places and spaces of St. Croix and beyond.